Mini Cooper LED Headlight Teardown

Dang, this one even bigger 18*14*11cm. Made by Valeo.

mini_cooper_led_1

mini_cooper_led_2

mini_cooper_led_3

This LED projector is dual beam, using force convection aka fan to removing heat from its emitter/heatsink.
Build quality, especially plastic for mounting bracket have a “cheap” feels unlike BMW 2 series.

Starting to remove each parts. Same as BMW, use stupid “technology” with ALL BLACK color for cable, WHY ?!
Those big bowl is serve for High Beam.

mini_cooper_led_teardown_1

You can see emitter after removing the bowl. Using flex cable as connection from main connector to emitter.

mini_cooper_led_teardown_2

Removing further, we can see double bowl serve as Low Beam.

mini_cooper_led_emitter_high_beam

mini_cooper_led_emitter_low_beam

mini_cooper_led_teardown_3

Here’s a closer look those emitter. it’s reminds me Oslon Black Flat construction, but after seeing its die i’m pretty sure its Nichia style as I usually seen at Japanese cars.
Probably its a custom package, because no other marking beside Valeo bla…bla…bla…
its 4 row emitter in series configuration and when we look at Nichia website, it’s “match” with this NC4W121AT in term of die dimension.
The other component near emitter just an Capacitor and Thermistor.

mini_cooper_led_emitter_detail

This is flex cable wiring, just beware when you tried to feed this emitter using an constant current led driver since it have a common cathode topology.
make sure your driver is having “Ground Reference” at Cathode output.

mini_cooper_led_configurationFan, Made by Panasonic. Its rated 13.5VDC @ 0.07A, it draw about 60mA @ 13.5VDC when I try to feed it with my bench supply. Using different COLOR for CABLE for each input/ouput, Thank you Japanese Engineer !!!

mini_cooper_led_fan

While the fan is running, I try to measure “tachometer” and got about 167Hz output ( I forgot to change 10x probe setting at my Scope).

mini_cooper_led_fan_tach_output

Since this led projector came without driver, i did a simple test as usual. Set my Bench Supply to Constant Current 0.8A output .I think its safe point to start, since in datasheet its have 1A recomended drive current.
Run it with 27 deg Celcius Ambient Temperature, and got temperature about 44 deg celcius after 1 hour. With my poor calculation I think its safe to drive this emitter 1A for eternity 🙂

Move to its beam shoot. Sorry for flipped image.
Drive it with 1A which about 29 Watt for Low Beam and 15 Watt for High Beam.

Low Beam, Right side emitter.

mini_cooper_led_low_beam_right

Low Beam, Left side emitter.

mini_cooper_led_low_beam_left

Low Beam, all together.

mini_cooper_led_low_beam

High Beam have a crazy blue color shift.

mini_cooper_led_high_beam

I’m still using a fix camera setting, so you can compared these output to BMW 2 series directly.
And judge by yourself which one is better.
Thank’s to Irvan Fatwa Negara for lend me this led projector.

28 thoughts on “Mini Cooper LED Headlight Teardown

  1. Hi!I love the way you blog!too bad I didn’t see it before,I wouldn’t have to take it apart to find the pins.could you draw a diagram of the driver?think many will help.I really need it now

    Like

      1. Sorry, i do not have it.

        Maybe you can search for constant current led driver, all you need is boost type for lowbeam and sepic type for highbeam

        Like

    1. My schematic quite clear already

      For lowbeam, make two emitter connection in series (the one that share common cathode must be at the bottom string) and hook it to boost led driver

      For highbeam just connect to sepic led driver

      Output amperage for each driver already wrote in ballpark value (datasheet)

      Like

  2. Hello!
    I would like to ask you if you could help me power up the projector I have, it is also made by Valeo, and I think its just a next gen of the one you have here. Here are some photos, let me know what you think I should use for driver and how to wire it.
    Thanks a lot!!
    https://imgur.com/Ezj386v
    https://imgur.com/BLoSpEt
    https://imgur.com/UCCe56n
    https://imgur.com/GVoYcF8
    https://imgur.com/5iTkHhB
    https://imgur.com/zwR55OV
    https://imgur.com/HEz2dEu

    Best regards!

    Like

      1. I think it is using “bare” emitter version
        Do you have multimeter and/or basic electronic?

        Because you have to trace all the connection from emitter to connector one by one

        Like

      2. Yes, I have, and medium electrical knowledge 🙂
        I added one more photo to dropbox, with connections I have already traced to connectors. 🙂
        Thank you so much!

        Like

      3. Well, it is done 🙂
        To minimize cost for driver you just have to wire all 3 in series for low beam and leave others 2 as high beam in series

        Do you have an CC/CV power supply? If not maybe you can purchase some cheapo boost led driver (XL6006 based) for testing
        My guess each emitter need at least 9 or 12V

        Like

      4. I have bought this a while ago, but I dont think now this is powerful enough.
        The problem is I dont know which current to buy if CC, of not sure which chip it is, for CV driver….

        https://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-5-25V-QX5305-Boost-LED-Constant-Current-Driver-Power-Supply-Module-Controller/183235927777?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

        I would really like to be able to drive those projectors stable, so I can retrofit them in my car… 😀

        Thank you very much for your help±!!

        Like

      5. I’ve been playing with those IC couple years ago, they are not too good for “high” current application.
        They are good to about 20W-ish

        Maybe you should consider purchasing Hyperboost 4.0
        All those 5 string can be driven once, with relay cut for high/low beam

        Like

    1. Hyperboost 4.0 is around 45$ shipped, and there are only 2 pcs left on stock.

      Is there any other alternative that can also do the job, yet maybe a bit cheaper?

      Thanks!

      I will draw a schematics just to check with you if I understood you good 😀

      Like

      1. Since you already order those QX5305 driver, you should give a try.

        Set lowish amperage at first and measure voltage/temperature of the emiter

        Like

    2. Hello Peter, Did you find a way to power up the projector Valeo? I have the same as yours but I don’t know what driver to use.

      Like

Leave a comment